![]() ![]() ![]() |
FAQ - Frequently asked questions![]() You have questions ? We have the answers !FAQ's are the most frequently asked questions. FAQ's are inspired by the most common questions that we receive from end users/ industry professionals and are updated on a daily basis. FAQ's are available for the following products : ![]() Frequently asked questions :
![]() Deck Cleaner is a detergent type cleaner containing oxalic acid. In its undiluted state, it has about 8% - 10% oxalic acid.
![]() Deck Cleaner is not a stripper and will not remove any finish that is in sound condition.
![]() Yes, except for pressure treated wood or if the discolouration is from some treatment or finish used in the past that permanently discoloured it. In some cases, you may have to use a stronger solution and allow it to remain on the surface longer. Deck Cleaner will not bring back a natural colour to pressure treated wood because its natural colours were lost when it was treated.
![]() No. Use a 50/50 solution of bleach and water to kill the mildew. Follow with an application of Deck Cleaner to neutralise the bleach, clean the wood and restore the natural colour
![]() Deck Cleaner is versatile enough to clean all woods inc pressure treated wood, fibreglass, stone, concrete, rust stains and more.
![]() NO!!!!!! – The chlorine mixed with Deck Cleaner creates toxic fumes
![]() These types of products are damaging to the cell structure of wood. They break down the binder (lignin), which holds the wood cells together creating a soft spongy surface that weathers more quickly and has an adverse effect on the appearance of natural finishes. Deck Cleaner will not remove the natural colour of the wood while bleach and bleach-based deck cleaners will. Many of the less expensive deck cleaners are just a mix of bleach and detergent. Deck Cleaner is not harmful to the environment and it will not damage the wood.
![]() Yes. The best way is to apply it at a low pressure using the Venturi injection tube, allow it to sit on the wood, then powerwash off with the pressure set at 500 to 700psi. Venturi injectors reduce the Deck Cleaner to a 1:10 ratio, so it will not be as effective as it would when applied at a 1:4 mix. Rinse the equipment thoroughly after use. (Most seals are resistant to oxalic acid, especially in the diluted state)
![]() It can, but you must be sure it is not over diluted in the mixing process. When using a garden sprayer it is best applied diluted, up to a maximum of 1:4 with water. Be sure to rinse the equipment thoroughly after use
![]() Yes. Apply Deck Cleaner to the entire surface around the nail stains, not just the stains; rinse thoroughly. After the wood is dry, counter-sink and putty all nails to be sure stains will not return.
![]() Deck Cleaner can be used neat or diluted up to a maximum of 1:4 with clean water. Dilution is very much dependent on the condition of the surface you are cleaning and what you are trying to clean. The best way is to test a small area first using the maximum dilution (1:4) and work backwards from there until the desired result is achieved
![]() Nothing has gone wrong. When cleaning the wood with Deck Cleaner you remove any dead de-natured wood fibres that give the wood its silver color. You are then left with clean fresh wood that has had the natural oils, which give the wood its rich deep color, bleached out of its surface by the suns UV rays. Applying Deks Olje D1 will replace these lost oils, protect the wood and give it backs its natural look
![]() While Deck Cleaner is not harmful to skin, we do recommend that those with sensitive or chapped and cut hands wear suitable protective gloves – Nitrile, Rubber…..
![]() For general use Deck Cleaner is only suitable for exterior use. If it is required for interior use, then please contact our technical department for specific advice.
![]() This very much depends on the individual user’s definition of “green”. However, Deck Cleaner is based on Oxalic Acid and detergents which neutralize when they come in contact with soil. Deck Cleaner is also fully washable with water and therefore based on these facts, Deck Cleaner could be considered “green”.
![]() 18 months when stored in its original unopened container
![]() It is difficult to answer this specifically as we do not know the storage conditions or the amount of product left in the container. To give an example, if there is half the material left in the original container, the top is properly closed and it is kept in a suitable building i.e. garage then it should be good for an additional 12-18 months.
![]() The coverage of 1ltr of Deck Cleaner undiluted is 5m2 per liter. Actual coverage will vary depending on type, age, texture and condition of surface being cleaned.
![]() Deck Cleaner may be used on decks, wheel houses, handrails, furniture, hulls, etc Restores color to greyed/ weathered teak, can be used as prep before treating new teak and other hardwoods with Deks Olje # 1 (D1) and Deks Olje # 2 (D2), used to remove oxidation and dirt as prep for Owatrol ALU, Gelcoat Restorer, Marine Oil and Owatrol C.I.P. products
![]() Frequently asked questions :
![]() D1 may be applied to surfaces where it has previously been treated with D1 but all other oils must be completely removed before applying D1
![]() Deks Olje D1 works by penetrating the wood and literally feeding it with oil. Filling the woods pores full of oil, expelling any moisture and air, so stabilizing the wood thus protecting it from the inside out, while giving it a rich oiled silken finish
![]() D1 can be removed by using Marine Strip.
![]() Because of the penetrating qualities of D1 and therefore the protection it offers to timber it makes an ideal primer for single pack paints and especially those used below the waterline. These paints must have mineral spirit stated as clean up in order to avoid any possible reaction with the D1
![]() The secret of D1’s success lies in it’s saturation of the wood. Saturation of the wood is achieved by D1 penetrating deep in to the wood through its own natural capillary action. To aid this capillary action and assist in its penetration of the wood, it is important to keep D1 active; this is achieved by continually brushing over the same areas while applying additional thin applications of D1 until the wood is fully saturated, which is denoted by D1 flooding on the surface. As much D1 as possible must be applied the first day.
![]() Leaving long periods between the applications of D1 will reduce the saturation of the wood by D1. This is because the first applications of D1 will have dried and sealed the pores of the wood preventing further penetration of D1 deep in to the wood thus reducing protection.
![]() Deks Olje D1 can be applied to new wood after suitable preparation.
![]() It very much depends on the type of caulking that has been used on your boat deck. Below is a list of caulking types that D1 will and will not affect.
D1 will not affect 2 part-caulking systems, these in general are polysulphide based
D1 will not affect Silicone or Acrylic based caulking
D1 will affect some single pack Polyurethane caulks, such as Sikaflex A1, FC and D1.
The more modern Polyurethane caulks tend not be affected by D1. An example of this would be Sikaflex 290DC. It is important with these types of caulks that they are left to fully cure before D1 is applied. A minimum of 10 weeks is the recommended period of time.
D1 will soften all bitumen based caulks
As with any product we strongly recommend that a small test area be carried out to ensure compatibility before applying D1 to the complete deck
![]() It is not possible to give an exact answer to this question as all oils are different. However natural oils are unlikely to affect caulking, but we would always recommend trying a small area first.
![]() If D1 has softened the caulking there is likely to be 2 reasons for this.
1 – The caulking is bitumen based and therefore not compatible with D1
2 – The caulking is new and has not been allowed to fully cure prior to applying the D1. The reason D1 softens caulking is that the oil and vapours from D1 leech in to the caulk as it dries.
![]() Temporary solution - Apply 1 or 2 coats of D2 to the strips of caulking, allowing a minimum of 12 hours between each coat.
Permanent solution – Remove the caulking from between the boards using a Fein grouting tool (see http://www.multimaster.info/en_us/versatility/#8 for more information) and re-caulk.
![]() Wipe the affected areas with a cloth soaked in Acetone or Denatured Alcohol
![]() The oils in Iroko, Padouk and other similar woods contain a substance that prevents Deks Olje D1 from drying properly. These types of woods should be treated with Deep Cleaner to remove the excess oils or allowed to weather for 6 – 12 months before applying Deks Olje D1.
![]() Yes. Deks Olje D1 will give an oiled rich finish to the wood enhancing its beauty and grain. D1 does not create a film and therefore the surface will not become slippery when wet, making it ideal for protecting decks and other horizontal surfaces that will be walked on.
![]() D1 can be used for both interior and exterior woodwork.
![]() Being an oil-based product D1 cannot be considered as an environmentally friendly product.
![]() 2 years when stored in its original unopened packaging.
![]() It is difficult to answer this specifically as we do not know the storage conditions or the amount of product left in the container. D1 is a naturally air drying oil and as such the volume of air in the can after use is important, as a rule of thumb if more than 25% of the product has been used then it should be transferred to a smaller, airtight, closed metal or glass container. If less than 25% of the product has been used then it should be good for 6 – 12 months depending on storage conditions.
![]() The coverage of 1 liter of D1 is as follows:
Initial application: 11 to 43 ft2 (1 to 4 m²) per liter.
Maintenance application: 86 to 129 ft2 (8 to 12 m²) per liter.
Actual coverage will vary depending on texture and porosity of the surface.
![]() D1 may be used on any of type of exterior/ interior wood in the following areas handrails, furniture, lockers, seating, frames, doors, decking, hulls (as a primer) etc.
![]() D1 may be applied below the waterline but must be finished with D2 or “bottom paint” that’s clean up is specified as mineral spirit.
![]() D1’s place is in the wood and not on the surface. Since D1 does not form a film on the wood it cannot peel or flake. If D1 has been applied to form a film on the surface, then it has been applied incorrectly.
![]() This will very much depend on exposure to and intensity of, the suns UV rays, but on average D1 will need to be topped at the beginning of each season to further protect, maintain and enhance the wood.
![]() D1 should be applied wet-on-wet, that is, as soon as one application has penetrated the wood the next application should be applied. How long this period actually is will depend on the porosity of the wood, it could be as little as 10 minutes or as long as 30 minutes. Should the wood still not be saturated at the end of the first days, applications then D1 may be left overnight and application started again the following morning.
![]() Frequently asked questions :
![]() To receive the very best performance from the Deks Olje system, we always recommend that any existing coatings are completely removed. We also recognize that there are times when this is not practical or possible and in these cases suggest the following guidelines.
D2 is a natural oil varnish and therefore by its nature is softer and more flexible than the normal varnishes/finishes used on boats .i.e. polyurethane, 2 components (epoxy) or alkyd varnishes. These types of varnish/finish become brittle overtime leading them to crack, peel and flake. Unlike D2, they do not have the flexibility and therefore movement that D2 has. This means that while D2 will move with the timber and coating it has been applied to it cannot stop the coating underneath from eventually breaking away from the timber. The fact that the 2 coatings will move at different rates, means there is a possibility of delamination between the original coating and D2.
To avoid the possibility of delamination, it is important that any previous coatings are thoroughly abraded using 100grit paper to ensure proper adhesion of the D2 product..
While in most cases applying D2 on top of an existing coating will be for maintenance purposes only, we still suggest applying the required number of coats of D2. This is because even though you are applying D2 on top of an existing coating and creating a good film on the timber, D2 only gives a thin film build per coat. If the proper number of coats of D2 is not applied, the correct film thickness will not be achieved, leading to a shorter time to first maintenance of the D2 product.
We do not recommend applying D2 on top of any 2 component (epoxy) finish as these types of finish are designed to give a thick and very hard film which has little flexibility.
Note: We recommend that a small test area is carried out to ensure compatibility between the two finishes.
![]() I wish to maintain my existing coating with D2 but areas have worn down to bare wood. How should I proceed?
Thoroughly abrade the worn surface with 100 or 120 grit sandpaper to remove any loose material and form a good key for the final finish coats. Any bare areas of timber should be thoroughly cleaned and edges of good coating feathered in to take off the sharp edge. Saturate any bare timber with continual wet-on-wet applications of D1 until it will absorb no more D1 i.e. it floods on the surface. The number of applications of D1 will depend on the absorbency of the timber. It could be as little as 6 applications or as many as 10 or more but you should be able to apply all of these in a day. Allow D1 to set-up and dry 2- 3 days. Areas treated with D1 should now be coated with the required number of D2 coats to bring it up level with the existing finish. If you then wish to finish the whole area with D2 see section above, entitled “I have previously used another type of varnish on my woodwork but now wish to use D2. Can I apply D2 on top of it?”
![]() D2 is a highly flexible oil varnish, which gives a thinner film of product on the surface than a polyurethane or epoxy varnish that is to say, it needs 2/3 coats of D2 to be the equivalent of 1 coat of polyurethane varnish. It is this slow building of the film and the nature of the product itself that gives D2 its flexibility, allowing it to expand and contract with the wood without cracking and therefore peeling and flaking. Applying 6 coats ensures the correct film build and performance of D2.
![]() There is no need to sand between coats of D2. However for an increased gloss level a light sanding with 480 wet & dry between the last 2 coats may be done
![]() D2 can be invisibly patch repaired and should be carried out in the following manner. Sand the worn area with 320 wet & dry using D1 as the lubricant. Wipe over the surface to remove the sanding residue. Apply appropriate number of coats of D2 to bring it level with the good area.
![]() All 6 coats should be applied within 1 month
![]() No. The Deks Olje system is based on saturating the wood first with D1. This ensures full protection of the timber and should any areas of D2 be allowed to wear back to bare wood then moisture cannot ingress in to the wood causing unsightly staining underneath the finish
![]() Epoxy, clear coat and varnishes - polyurethane etc, all become brittle overtime due to the suns UV rays, causing them to crack, peel and flake, which in turn allows water to enter the cracks etc causing more peeling and flaking, this leads to water (moisture) getting trapped under the finish causing staining, usually black in color. Unlike these finishes, if D2 is worn back to bare wood, then moisture cannot enter the timber, since it has been saturated with D1, which will prevent this. D2 is a traditional oil varnish and while not as hard as those finishes already mentioned, requiring more coats to achieve the correct film build, it does mean that it is flexible and will move with the wood as it expands and contracts while not becoming brittle. While other varnishes require sanding between each coat, which entails a lot of extra time and sanding labor, there is no sanding between coats with the D2 product. D2 can easily, be invisibly patch repaired, negating the need for coating a full strip of timber, which is necessary with the other finishes. Why? Because other finishes will have let water in to the timber as previously described and the only way to remove this type of staining is to strip back to bare wood. With other finishes this usually requires performing maintenance on the full strip of timber
![]() This condition is known as ‘Silicone eyes’ and is brought about by the surface tension of D2 being broken. Usually this condition is due to the D2 having come in to contact with a silicone of some sort or other similar form of surface contamination. There are 2 ways to deal with this. 1 – Lightly abrade the damaged surface with 240 or 320 wet & dry using D1 as the lubricant to break down the craters. Remove sanding residue and re-apply D2. 2 – Make a mixture of 9 parts de-natured alcohol to 1 part household vinegar and wipe this mix over the damaged surface again to break down the craters. Leave to dry. Re-apply D2
![]() D2 can be used on both interior and exterior woodwork.
![]() Being an oil-based product D2 cannot be considered as an environmentally friendly product.
![]() 2 years when stored in its original unopened packaging.
![]() It is difficult to answer this specifically as we do not know the storage conditions or the amount of product left in the container. D2 is a naturally air drying oil and as such the volume of air in the can after use is important, as a rule of thumb, if more than 25% of the product has been used then it should be transferred to a smaller, airtight, closed metal or glass container. If less than 25% of the product has been used then it should be good for 6 – 12 months depending on storage conditions.
![]() The coverage of 1 liter of D2 is 161ft2 (15 m²) per liter.
Actual coverage will vary depending on texture and porosity of the surface.
![]() D2 may be used on any of type of exterior/ interior wood in the following areas; handrails, furniture, lockers, seating, frames, doors, decking etc. D2 may also be used below the waterline where the boat is removed from the water after use, but should not be used below the waterline if the boat is permanently moored. DO NOT use D2 on decks, or any area where there will be foot traffic.
![]() The ingredients and formula used to make and manufacture D2 negates the need for separate UV inhibitors to be added to the product.
![]() It is not possible to put an exact period on this as it very much depends on where the boat is located. Full exposure to the suns UV rays in say the Caribbean will be more intense when compared to the same exposure in the Seattle area at the same time of year. Plus the Caribbean has full sun all year round, where as the Seattle area has a winter with little or weak sun and therefore weak UV rays. Another factor that affects the life of D2 is general maintenance in the form of washing the surface with fresh clean water to remove dried on salt crystals, which will further intensify the affect of the UV rays since they act like a magnifying glass on the finish. Allowing for these two extremes, 6 coats of D2 will last between 12 months to 5 years depending on, weather, wear and general maintenance.
![]() Frequently asked questions :
![]() Gelcoat Restorer works by penetrating the gelcoat and reviving the pigments within the gelcoat
![]() Gelcoat Restorer needs to penetrate the surface in order to be able to regenerate the pigments. If Gelcoat Restorer is applied to a surface that is hot then it is likely that the Gelcoat Restorer will dry before it has had chance to penetrate properly and restorer the color of the surface you are treating.
![]() Gelcoat Restorer can be used on plastic, painted surfaces, brass, anodized metals, ceramics, etc
![]() Gelcoat Restorer can be stripped using Marine Strip, however it is important to note that Marine Strip is a paint stripper and therefore care should be taken around or on painted surfaces
![]() Nothing has gone wrong. Even though white is a color it is not pigmented in the way that say a blue, green or red is pigmented and therefore in white there are no pigments to revive.
![]() No. Gelcoat Restorer will not work on Nyalic. This is because Nyalic does not contain any color pigments.
![]() Unlike waxes and polishes that sit on the surface and dry out quickly, Gelcoat Restorer penetrates the surface to rejuvenate the color and form a tough, long lasting flexible finish.
![]() Gelcoat Restorer usually restores the color of a surface between 5 and 20 minutes after application depending on the condition and type of surface.
![]() Gelcoat Restorer can be used both internally and externally. Use inside will be very limited since these surfaces are not exposed to the suns UV rays, which causes the finish to lose its color.
![]() Being an oil-based product Gelcoat Restorer cannot be considered as an environmentally friendly product.
![]() 2 years minimum when stored in its original unopened packaging.
![]() It is difficult to answer this specifically as we do not know the storage conditions or the amount of product left in the container. Gelcoat Restorer is a naturally air drying oil and as such the volume of air in the can after use is important, as a rule of thumb if more than 25% of the product has been used then it should be transferred to a smaller, airtight, closed metal or glass container. If less than 25% of the product has been used then it should be good for 6 – 12 months depending on storage conditions.
![]() The coverage of 1 liter of Gelcoat Restorer is 193ft2 (18 m²) per liter.
Actual coverage will vary depending on texture and porosity of the surface.
![]() Gelcoat Restorer may be used on fiberglass, plastic, paint, stone, brass and other dulled metals ( anodized ), and all vertical and horizontal surfaces.
![]() Gelcoat Restorer may be used on fiberglass, plastic, paint, stone, brass, copper and chromed metals, anodized aluminium and bronze metals, and all vertical and horizontal surfaces. Areas of use include lifeboats, tenders, decks, pax cabin balconies, boat sides, etc.
![]() It is almost impossible to answer this question since there are so many variables – intensity of UV rays, location of boat, shaded or unshaded area, vertical or horizontal surface. But as a worst case scenario areas treated with Gelcoat Restorer will need a maintenance application after 12 months.
![]() Normally one application of Gelcoat Restorer will be sufficient, however for extremely weathered surfaces a second application may be needed and this should be applied as soon application of the first coat has been completed.
![]() Frequently asked questions :
![]() Marine Oil is a rust inhibitor where as Corroseal is a rust converter. Unlike Marine Oil which penetrates the rusted surfaces driving out any moisture and air and filling the rust pores with oil, which then dries to form a strong, stable and flexible finish, Corroseal works by chemically changing the rust to a black non-rusting layer known as magnetite. The benefit of Marine Oil against Corroseal is that it may be used on all metal surfaces, stainless steel, galvanised metal, cold rolled steel, Cor-ten etc etc. Also because it works with the rust rather than trying to convert it, it offers a much stronger and more stable surface to apply a topcoat to.
![]() See answer for Corroseal above, since like Corroseal, Ospho is a rust converter, turning iron oxide (rust) to iron phosphate –an inert, hard substance that turns metal black. Marine Oil is non-hazardous, safe to use in enclosed spaces and will not react with any metal, unlike Ospho, which contains Phosphoric Acid and Sodium Dichromate (a known Carcinogen). Ospho may react with various metals to generate hydrogen gas, which can prove explosive in confined areas, for these reasons alone it is recommended that Ospho is used with ventilation in confined areas. None of these issues are applicable to Marine Oil.
![]() Marine Oil is a conditioner for oil or alkyd based paints that extends the wet edge time, eases application and improves the flow and levelling of the paint. It is also an excellent rust inhibitor, penetrating deep in to the rust pores expelling any moisture and air, so forming a firm foundation to paint on
![]() Marine Oil can be over-coated with any single pack paint where the clean-up of the paint is stated as mineral spirit. Marine oil may also be over-coated with any single pack water-based paint, however for rusted surfaces it is important that the rust is fully sealed with Marine Oil to avoid any rust spots coming through.
![]() Unlike an evaporating solvent, that dilutes the paint. Marine Oil maintains the paints inherent qualities and characteristics, physically fortifying and enhancing the paint. Benefits include:
Paint flows to a smooth, uniform thickness, giving better coverage,
Extends the wet edge time, eliminating lap marks,
Helps paint adhere,
Provides a moisture barrier,
Does not alter the original colour of the paint.
![]() Yes. An alkyd paint is actually an oil-based paint. The term alkyd refers to the fact that the oil is synthetic instead of a natural oil.
![]() No. The drying and recoating times remain unaffected
![]() There is no fixed amount that you should add to the paint, let the brush or roller be your guide. If the edge of the paint is drying too quickly or it is being heavy and sticky to use then add enough Marine Oil until the paint works smoothly and evenly. As a guide:
Topcoat – As required. Normally 5-20% by volume
Undercoat – Up to 30% by volume
Primer – Up to 50% by volume
![]() Because a rusty surface is irregular or scaly, the paint will not spread across it easily or penetrate into the surface irregularities; instead it will sit on top trapping any moisture and air beneath, which will continue to feed the rust. Marine Oil is highly penetrating and when applied to a rusted surface will drive out the moisture and air, replacing it with oil, so stopping the rust and forming a firm foundation to paint on. Adding Marine Oil to the paint helps it flow into the irregularities, penetrating air pockets and providing a moisture barrier.
![]() This is proprietary information and we do not divulge the ingredients. It is a solvent-based, air-drying oil and there is
nothing in it restricted by the EPA. It has been on the market for over 60 years.
![]() It can be mixed with any one-part, solvent-based polyurethane or oil-based varnish where white/mineral spirit is specified as clean up. Adding Owatrol will help the varnish to flow and level better, ensuring a high quality finish is achieved. Mixing 1 part Marine Oil with 4 parts varnish when applying to bare timber will aid adhesion and ensure a smoother finish, thus reducing the need for de-nibbing between coats.
![]() Marine Oil can be added to any, one part polyurethane paint where white/mineral sprit is specified as clean up.
![]() No, they are not compatible – the vehicle in shellac is alcohol – Marine Oil is white/mineral spirits.
![]() Marine Oil is compatible with any one-part paint, woodstain, or varnish that has white/mineral spirit specified, as it’s clean up. Marine Oil is not compatible with coatings that contain a “hot” solvent (xylene, tolvene, etc.). Marine Oil is NOT compatible with two-part (catalysed) coatings, chlorinated rubber, coal tar coatings, fast drying paint, (like car paint) and (of course) emulsion or acrylic. If in doubt, mix a small bit and apply to a test area to confirm appearance.
![]() We don’t know, in some cases it may be, in others it may not. We do not know the formulas of all the paints available. We suggest testing a small amount – if the Marine Oil mixes in and appearance is OK after drying; there should be no problem. Generally, you will only need to add small quantities of the Marine Oil to these types of paint.
![]() Marine Oil does provide moisture resistance on wood, but it is not a waterproofer or water repellent since it allows the wood to breath and water vapour can pass.
![]() When used neat Marine Oil will cover up to 194ft2 per liter (18m2 per liter) depending on the porosity, texture and condition of the surface to be treated
![]() Yes. The mix of paint and Marine Oil will not harm the paint in the tin at all. In some cases it will stop the paint in the tin from skinning over
![]() Marine Oil can be used both internally and externally.
![]() Being an oil-based product Marine Oil cannot be considered as an environmentally friendly product.
![]() 5 years minimum when stored in its original unopened packaging.
![]() It is difficult to answer this specifically as we do not know the storage conditions or the amount of product left in the container. Marine Oil is a naturally air drying oil and as such the volume of air in the can after use is important. As a rule of thumb if more than 25% of the product has been used then it should be transferred to a smaller, airtight, closed metal or glass container. If less than 25% of the product has been used then it should be good for 6 – 12 months depending on storage conditions.
![]() Marine Oil may be used on steel structures, railings, pipes, grills, stairs, machinery, engine parts, trailers, hulls, tanks etc. All Wood surfaces, dry, porous, soft & punky and all horizontal and vertical surfaces. Any area where rust is forming, high saltwater/ salt air exposure areas or to create an aged look on exterior/ interior metal. Also use MARINE OIL as an additive any paint, stain or varnish whose clean-up is specified as mineral spirit to ease application and improve the finish.
![]() Marine Oil is a clear penetrating oil that can be used as a conditioner for any coating where the cleanup is specified as mineral spirit. Marine Oil is also an excellent rust inhibitor but may only be over coated with oil/alkyd or water-based paint. CIP is a penetrating coloured anti-corrosive metal primer that can be over coated with any type of paint, it may also be applied to new or brightly cleaned metal surfaces.
![]() Marine Oil will help to prevent paint from peeling and flaking.
Both wood and metal surfaces vary in porosity depending on the age, type and condition of the surface. Primers are formulated for average surfaces and do not satisfy the porosity of the substrate since they are unable to fully penetrate the surface, this compromises adhesion of the paint, eventually leading to peeling and flaking. Adding Marine Oil to the primer carries the paint in to the substrate, satisfying its porosity and ensuring proper adhesion, thus preventing peeling and flaking. Marine Oil should then be added to the subsequent coats of paint to further aid adhesion. Where the substrate has become extremely porous i.e. rusted metal or dry punky wood then it should be saturated with neat Marine Oil by applying it wet-on-wet until it cannot absorb any more and allowed to dry. After drying, apply paint adding Marine Oil as required to aid adhesion and ease application.
Where a painted surface is in good sound condition and only requires a freshen up, adding Marine Oil to the maintenance coat will ensures good adhesion to the existing painted surface.
![]() Rusted surfaces should be treated with Marine Oil to saturate the rust pores and create a matt sheen finish on the surface. When the Marine Oil is dry it can then be over coated with D2 to give a high gloss rustic look to the rusted surface.
![]() Wipe around the top of the pouring spout with a cloth. Adding a little mineral spirit to the cloth will also help remove any Marine Oil that may have run down the spout.
![]() When Marine Oil is being used on porous surfaces such as rust or soft punky wood then it should be applied wet-on-wet, that is, as soon as one application has penetrated the surface the next application should be applied. How long this period actually lasts will depend on the porosity of the surface. It could be as little as 10 minutes or as long as 30 minutes.
![]() Because Marine Oil is a penetrating product and its place is in the surface and not on it then there is no fixed number of applications. Actual number of applications will be dictated by the porosity of the surface being treated.
![]() Marine Oil is not generally used as a finish. However when it is used on rusted surfaces to protect the metal and maintain the rustic look then life expectancy is approximately 12 months in an aggressive environment i.e. fully exposed on a sea front, before a maintenance application is required.
![]() Frequently asked questions :
![]() Marine Strip is a water washable stripper that is solvent free and of a gel consistency, which makes it ideal for vertical surfaces. Easy to use, it can strip up to 8 layers of paint in one application.
![]() Yes, with the exception of aluminum and wood veneers.
![]() Marine Strip easily removes all single pack oil-based paints, varnishes and wood stains. For water-based paints, it is necessary to give Marine Strip a longer working time. MARINE STRIP does not remove two-component, quick-drying or baked on paints.
![]() This will depend on the type and thickness of coating to be removed. For example, from a few minutes for a stain, to approx 4 hours for up to 8 layers of paint while antifouling is up to 12 hours.
![]() Marine Strip contains caustic soda, which reacts with some tannins, causing the wood to darken. Any wood that has darkened should be neutralized with Deck Cleaner (same manufacturer) to restore the color of the wood.
![]() It is essential to neutralize porous surfaces to prevent traces of caustic soda that remain in the substrate? It is therefore imperative on wood. Non-porous surfaces like gelcoat, metal etc do not need neutralizing but should be well rinsed with plenty of fresh clean water.
![]() Marine Strip should be neutralized immediately with Deck Cleaner after rinsing and before it is dry.
![]() In these cases, it is possible that the surface has been burnt by the caustic soda. First try lightening the surface with Deck Cleaner, for this, wet the substrate and apply the product as directed on the packaging. If this does not work, try with hydrogen peroxide at 130 volumes or with Oxydrine to lighten the wood. If this does not work then the surface will need to be sanded.
![]() Marine Strip contains caustic soda, and therefore all surfaces not to be stripped should be protected to prevent being damaged. In order to prevent burns from splashes etc it is recommended that the user wears gloves and goggles. In case of burns, flush with water.
![]() Yes. In this case, the pressure washer will help remove the product and the coating. However care should be taken on wood with the pressure washer used at a maximum of 60 bars /870 psi to prevent damage to the substrate.
![]() A test is recommended to determine the contact time necessary for stripping the finish. The test, especially on wood, is highly recommended, for two reasons: to avoid or minimize darkening of the wood and the risk of furring.
![]() In general, a minimum of two tests should be carried out: the first on the parts where the coating is the least damaged, the second where the coating is the most damaged. These tests will determine the contact time required for the condition of the coating to be stripped and help to minimize or avoid the darkening and furring of the wood.
![]() Yes. Marine Strip is safe to use on all plastic surfaces including gelcoat
![]() Works on: vinyl, acrylic, phenolic. Inactive: neoprene, cyanoacrylate, resorcin, polyurethanes, epoxy.
![]() On average 43ft2 (4m²) per liter. Actual coverage will vary depending on the number of layers to be stripped, thickness of coating, age and texture of surface.
![]() Marine Strip should only be used for exterior work.
![]() Marine Strip is a caustic based product, which is completely water dispersible and will therefore have little impact on the environment when diluted sufficiently with water. However, when mixed with the coating it is stripping care should be taken to avoid the mixture finding its way into any water courses or soil as the mix of coating and Marine Strip is unlikely to be environmentally friendly.
![]() 12 months when stored in its original unopened packaging.
![]() It is difficult to answer this specifically as we do not know the storage conditions or the amount of product left in the container. As a general rule Marine Strip should be used within 6 months of opening.
![]() Marine Strip may be used on wood, metal (not aluminium), plastic and gelcoat whether the surface is horizontal or vertical. Areas of use may be painted surfaces, handrails, decks, hulls, furniture etc.
![]() Marine Strip will remove most anti-fouling, subject to the anti-fouling being compatible with Marine Strip. We would always suggest carrying out a test first before proceeding with the complete job.
![]() Frequently asked questions :
![]() ALU is a highly flexible, anti corrosive coating that possess the deep penetrating and adhesion properties of Maarine Oil. It will restore rusted and corroded surfaces to a high quality appearance and give lasting protection; greatly prolonging the life of the treated surface.
![]() ALU is designed as a finish product and not for overcoating
![]() ALU may be applied to any metal surfaces, however in order to avoid reactions between the metal and aluminium particles in ALU we recommend that the metal is treated with Marine Oil first
![]() ALU can be applied to plastic, wood, etc
![]() ALU normally takes between 24 to 48 hours to dry depending on temperature and humidity
![]() ALU can be used on both interior and exterior surfaces.
![]() Being an oil-based product ALU cannot be considered as an environmentally friendly product.
![]() 2 years minimum when stored in its original unopened packaging.
![]() It is difficult to answer this specifically as we do not know the storage conditions or the amount of product left in the container. ALU is a naturally air drying oil and as such the volume of air in the can after use is important. As a rule of thumb if more than 25% of the product has been used then it should be transferred to a smaller, airtight, closed metal or glass container. If less than 25% of the product has been used then it should be good for 6 – 12 months depending on storage conditions.
![]() The coverage of 1 liter of ALU is 194ft² (18m²) per liter.
Actual coverage will vary depending on texture and porosity of the surface.
![]() Any area where oxidation is deteriorating the aluminum or galvanized finish/ metals, such as balcony structures, lamp posts, exterior marine equipment, and any exterior or interior metal structure that requires a high quality aluminium finish. ALU may also be used on wood and plastic.
![]() ALU is an anti-corrosive product that will protect against further corrosion of the surface when applied to a correctly prepared surface.
![]() ALU will restore rusted and corroded surfaces back to a bright silver finish after suitable preparation of the surface.
![]() ALU is a highly flexible product, which will expand and contract with the surface it has been applied to, thus preventing it from cracking and peeling.
![]() This will depend on the environment it is exposed to, but normally 3 to 5 year will be the time to first maintenance.
![]() For new steel work 1 coat of ALU is applied for all other surface conditions 2 coats of ALU should be applied.
![]() Recoating time is 24-48 hours.
![]() Frequently asked questions :
![]() CIP (Corrosive Inhibiting Primer) is a non toxic, coloured anti-corrosive primer that possesses the penetrating properties of Marine Oil with the added benefit that it may be over coated with any coating from an ordinary decorative paint to a high solvent finish (urethane, epoxy, chlorinated rubber etc) without risk of it dissolving.
![]() No. CIP can be applied direct to rusted surfaces but ensure that all loose rust is removed along with any surface contamination.
![]() CIP can be overcoated with any type of finish
![]() Drying times is generally between 24 and 72 hours depending on temperature, humidity and type of coating. For 2 component finishes it is always recommended to go for the longer drying time
![]() NO. CIP is a primer and is not designed to be left as the finished product
![]() CIP may be used below the waterline for both fresh and salt water environments. However it's important that it is overcoated with the appropriate finish before being subjected to this environment
![]() Ideally CIP should be overcoated at the earliest opportunity after it has dried to avoid possible surface contamination. However if conditions dictate that this is not possible then it may be left up to 2 weeks. If over coating is not immediately possible, then it is important to establish that the surface of the CIP is clean and contamination free, so as to ensure proper adhesion of any finish coats
![]() CIP may be applied to wood, plastic, stone, galvanized and non-ferrous metal etc
![]() CIP can be applied to new, suitably prepared steel/metal work including rusted steel/metal that’s has been cleaned back to a bright finish
![]() CIP can be used on both interior and exterior surfaces.
![]() Being an oil-based product CIP cannot be considered as an environmentally friendly product.
![]() 2 years minimum when stored in its original unopened packaging.
![]() It is difficult to answer this specifically as we do not know the storage conditions or the amount of product left in the container. CIP is a naturally air drying oil and as such the volume of air in the can after use is important. As a rule of thumb if more than 25% of the product has been used then it should be transferred to a smaller, airtight, closed metal or glass container. If less than 25% of the product has been used then it should be good for 6 – 12 months depending on storage conditions.
![]() The coverage of 1 liter of CIP is 161ft2 (15m²) per liter. Actual coverage will vary depending on texture and porosity of the surface.
![]() Use as a primer for highly corroded/rusted areas, new steel/metal work including galvanized surfaces. Areas of use would include steel railings, steel decks, steel structures, machinery, etc.
![]() CIP is a penetrating coloured anti-corrosive metal primer that can be over coated with any type of paint, it may also be applied to new or brightly cleaned metal surfaces. MARINE OIL is a clear penetrating oil that can be used as a conditioner for any coating where the cleanup is specified as mineral spirit. MARINE OIL is also an excellent rust inhibitor but may only be over coated with oil/alkyd or water-based paint.
![]() CIP protects underlying metal against corrosion by penetrating deep in to substrate
![]() CIP itself does not offer chemical resistance since it is primer. However, it can be over coated with paints that are designed to offer high chemical resistance.
![]() 1 to 3 coats of CIP is the minimum and maximum number of coats that should be applied depending on the condition of the surface being coated i.e. new steel work or heavily rusted surfaces.
![]() Recoating time between coats of CIP is 24hrs with a maximum of 48hrs.
You can also download our technical guide which references the various applications for our products. If you don't find a solution to your problem, please feel free to contact one of our specialists. |